KooK
10-22-2009, 12:16 PM
Here's the thing, I'm not really interested in selling this for cash, but if you can pony up the $4500 then we might have something to talk about. I'm not really interested in selling it for much less, I'm just more interested in a trade for a decent Jeep. I'm selling it because I've had it for a little while now and I'm just starting to get bored and want to move on again.
What I'm looking for:
A 1987-1995 YJ Jeep is preferred, it must have an inline 6, and it must be a manual transmission. Come to me with an auto or a 4 cylinder and I'm sorry but we just wasted our time.
What I'm trading
A 1971 Volkswagen Beetle, converted to a Baja Bug. This was a southern car so it's not falling apart from rust over the winters. So in turn, I'd like a Jeep that doesn't have fenders hanging off because of rust or is in poor shape. I'm trading a solid, well running and driving car and I'd like to get at least equal condition back.
Body:
The body is rough, it hasn't had a paint job in years now so I haven't freshly painted over anything so you can see all of it's problems. The stripes on top are fading, the previous owner didn't understand what prep was, it's a common 10-foot looker. However there are no rust holes or anything to be worried about. In the first few pictures I will post it wont have the rear fenders, when I first got this car the rear tires wouldn't clear the fenders and broke them a few times. They're just fiberglass so they've been repaired and are back on, but it's obvious where they've been repaired because they haven't been repainted. Also the door hinges have been modified so the doors pop off at will, similar to that of a Wrangler, if you're looking at trading a Wrangler and you've ever taken the doors off, you know what I'm talking about. They're very solid on there and it almost looks like it came that way.
Interior:
Inside the dash has been replaced with a solid metal plate, on it you have the stock working speedometer and odometer, the fuel gauge works perfectly, it has a 4 inch Autometer tachometer set into the dash, as well as Autometer oil pressure and voltmeter. There are bucket seats that really aren't too shabby inside, plus you're strapped down with a 5pt harness that isn't 2 years old yet. It has a 4 point cage, the battery is in the stock location and the rear seat has been removed for fear of fire (old school VW people know what I'm talking about here). The carpets in the back look as if there was a small fire started by slag from a welder, very good reason they look like that too. Other then that they look fine. The headliner isn't falling in any spots, it's all tight up against the roof, windows both roll up and down, wings both work, doors both work and lock properly. Wipers are fine, lights are good (turn signals don't work yet, they just need to be wired up, but the hazard switch is there and brand new).
Chassis:
The chassis is one solid piece, there was a rust hole under the battery when I bought it which is common, I bought new pressed sheet metal for it which is welded in, the carpet doesn't cover the new piece so when you look back, you can tell it was a decent install, nobody has ever noticed that section of pan has been replaced. Other then that the floors are very solid, the rust is minimal at best, like I said, this was a southern car for most of it's life. It has recently been brought into the Midwest and as far as I know, has been driven in the snow once or twice. Also the fuel tank is new, the old one wasn't bad but I had a spare new one I was never going to use anyway so I tossed it in.
Suspension:
The front suspension is mostly stock other than the front beam has been modified so it's adjustable. The bushings in the back have all been upgraded to poly, it has Sway-A-Way long 26mm torsion bars, the spring plates have been notched for more clearance due to the rear being lifted now.
Drivetrain:
The transmission I was told when I bought it had 5000 miles on it since a rebuild, when taking the engine off it did look pretty fresh inside the bell housing and around the transmission. It doesn't pop out of gear in any gears including reverse and it's quiet, so I believe them. The tranny now has probably 8000 miles on it. The rear axles have been upgraded to Porsche 930 CVs (flanges, stubs, cvs, cv shafts, and all) which can now take 26 degrees of angle instead of the stock 12.5, plus a ton more power and abuse. The Axles themselves are designed to twist so if anything were to happen or if you put a more powerful engine on it, all the shock is not directly absorbed by the transmission. Wheel bearings and seals on all four corners are brand new, and all the ball joints are very tight still.
Brakes:
The braking system is all brand new, all the lines have been replaced including the rubber ones, the rear shoes, combination kit, wheel cylinders are all brand new, the front has been converted to disc brakes which made a world of difference. The pedal feels stiff and braking feels great.
Engine:
The engine that comes on it is a mostly stock 1600cc dual port that first came with the car. It has a brand new oil pump on it, Compu-Fire electronic ignition that uses a coil pack, and a stinger tri-mil exhaust. Runs well but does have hesitation when you first set off, it lasts for about a second and drives normally after that. If you can figure it out, let me know because I've checked for air leaks, rebuilt the carb and retuned it. I'm probably just missing something. Also it has been converted to an alternator which is a German Bosch alternator, not one of those Chinese ones. The fuel itself is being pushed by a CB Performance 3.5psi rotary fuel pump, I got sick of messing with the mechanical pump and put that on. The fuel pump itself works great with the stock carb or Webers.
Misc:
The registration is all up to date, I do have insurance on it as I drive this car almost daily. The wheels and tires that you see in the picture will not come with it unless a little extra is paid or something else is worked out in trade. I do have the wheels that I first bought the car with that will go on it that will get it around. After the initial work I put into it after I bought it, it has been a very reliable and fun car to drive. Like I said earlier, I'm looking to see if I have an option to get out of it simply because I'm starting to get bored with it, I switch cars quite often, just always like to be in something different. Don't stop by if you don't have the cash or if you don't have a Wrangler, I'm not letting everybody and their mother test drive this thing and I need to know you're serious. If you bring me a Wrangler and you're not honest about everything before I find it, I probably wont do business with you. I'm being honest about my car and I hope you'd give me the same courtesy. Oh and the odometer reads almost 72k miles as it sits, not sure if it's correct or not, but there you go.
Aaron
515-360-2875
http://www.volk-tech.com/pictures/black/bugdyno1.jpg
http://www.volk-tech.com/pictures/black/bugdyno2.jpg
http://www.volk-tech.com/pictures/black/buglights1.jpg
http://www.volk-tech.com/pictures/whaohle/belts2.jpg
What I'm looking for:
A 1987-1995 YJ Jeep is preferred, it must have an inline 6, and it must be a manual transmission. Come to me with an auto or a 4 cylinder and I'm sorry but we just wasted our time.
What I'm trading
A 1971 Volkswagen Beetle, converted to a Baja Bug. This was a southern car so it's not falling apart from rust over the winters. So in turn, I'd like a Jeep that doesn't have fenders hanging off because of rust or is in poor shape. I'm trading a solid, well running and driving car and I'd like to get at least equal condition back.
Body:
The body is rough, it hasn't had a paint job in years now so I haven't freshly painted over anything so you can see all of it's problems. The stripes on top are fading, the previous owner didn't understand what prep was, it's a common 10-foot looker. However there are no rust holes or anything to be worried about. In the first few pictures I will post it wont have the rear fenders, when I first got this car the rear tires wouldn't clear the fenders and broke them a few times. They're just fiberglass so they've been repaired and are back on, but it's obvious where they've been repaired because they haven't been repainted. Also the door hinges have been modified so the doors pop off at will, similar to that of a Wrangler, if you're looking at trading a Wrangler and you've ever taken the doors off, you know what I'm talking about. They're very solid on there and it almost looks like it came that way.
Interior:
Inside the dash has been replaced with a solid metal plate, on it you have the stock working speedometer and odometer, the fuel gauge works perfectly, it has a 4 inch Autometer tachometer set into the dash, as well as Autometer oil pressure and voltmeter. There are bucket seats that really aren't too shabby inside, plus you're strapped down with a 5pt harness that isn't 2 years old yet. It has a 4 point cage, the battery is in the stock location and the rear seat has been removed for fear of fire (old school VW people know what I'm talking about here). The carpets in the back look as if there was a small fire started by slag from a welder, very good reason they look like that too. Other then that they look fine. The headliner isn't falling in any spots, it's all tight up against the roof, windows both roll up and down, wings both work, doors both work and lock properly. Wipers are fine, lights are good (turn signals don't work yet, they just need to be wired up, but the hazard switch is there and brand new).
Chassis:
The chassis is one solid piece, there was a rust hole under the battery when I bought it which is common, I bought new pressed sheet metal for it which is welded in, the carpet doesn't cover the new piece so when you look back, you can tell it was a decent install, nobody has ever noticed that section of pan has been replaced. Other then that the floors are very solid, the rust is minimal at best, like I said, this was a southern car for most of it's life. It has recently been brought into the Midwest and as far as I know, has been driven in the snow once or twice. Also the fuel tank is new, the old one wasn't bad but I had a spare new one I was never going to use anyway so I tossed it in.
Suspension:
The front suspension is mostly stock other than the front beam has been modified so it's adjustable. The bushings in the back have all been upgraded to poly, it has Sway-A-Way long 26mm torsion bars, the spring plates have been notched for more clearance due to the rear being lifted now.
Drivetrain:
The transmission I was told when I bought it had 5000 miles on it since a rebuild, when taking the engine off it did look pretty fresh inside the bell housing and around the transmission. It doesn't pop out of gear in any gears including reverse and it's quiet, so I believe them. The tranny now has probably 8000 miles on it. The rear axles have been upgraded to Porsche 930 CVs (flanges, stubs, cvs, cv shafts, and all) which can now take 26 degrees of angle instead of the stock 12.5, plus a ton more power and abuse. The Axles themselves are designed to twist so if anything were to happen or if you put a more powerful engine on it, all the shock is not directly absorbed by the transmission. Wheel bearings and seals on all four corners are brand new, and all the ball joints are very tight still.
Brakes:
The braking system is all brand new, all the lines have been replaced including the rubber ones, the rear shoes, combination kit, wheel cylinders are all brand new, the front has been converted to disc brakes which made a world of difference. The pedal feels stiff and braking feels great.
Engine:
The engine that comes on it is a mostly stock 1600cc dual port that first came with the car. It has a brand new oil pump on it, Compu-Fire electronic ignition that uses a coil pack, and a stinger tri-mil exhaust. Runs well but does have hesitation when you first set off, it lasts for about a second and drives normally after that. If you can figure it out, let me know because I've checked for air leaks, rebuilt the carb and retuned it. I'm probably just missing something. Also it has been converted to an alternator which is a German Bosch alternator, not one of those Chinese ones. The fuel itself is being pushed by a CB Performance 3.5psi rotary fuel pump, I got sick of messing with the mechanical pump and put that on. The fuel pump itself works great with the stock carb or Webers.
Misc:
The registration is all up to date, I do have insurance on it as I drive this car almost daily. The wheels and tires that you see in the picture will not come with it unless a little extra is paid or something else is worked out in trade. I do have the wheels that I first bought the car with that will go on it that will get it around. After the initial work I put into it after I bought it, it has been a very reliable and fun car to drive. Like I said earlier, I'm looking to see if I have an option to get out of it simply because I'm starting to get bored with it, I switch cars quite often, just always like to be in something different. Don't stop by if you don't have the cash or if you don't have a Wrangler, I'm not letting everybody and their mother test drive this thing and I need to know you're serious. If you bring me a Wrangler and you're not honest about everything before I find it, I probably wont do business with you. I'm being honest about my car and I hope you'd give me the same courtesy. Oh and the odometer reads almost 72k miles as it sits, not sure if it's correct or not, but there you go.
Aaron
515-360-2875
http://www.volk-tech.com/pictures/black/bugdyno1.jpg
http://www.volk-tech.com/pictures/black/bugdyno2.jpg
http://www.volk-tech.com/pictures/black/buglights1.jpg
http://www.volk-tech.com/pictures/whaohle/belts2.jpg