KooK
11-19-2008, 01:29 PM
*Found one of my old write ups on a Saab Forum, figured I'd post it here too*
This is a rough How To, please use all information at your own risk. I am an amature myself and have no clue what I am doing.
This install was done on my 02 Viggen, most 9-3s should have a similar setup so I hope this can help some of you thinking about doing this install.
Tools needed:
1/2 inch ratchet
3/8 inch ratchet
Sockets - 18mm, 17mm, 15mm, 8mm, 10mm
Wrenches - 18mm
8mm Hex male socket
philips screwdriver
T20 Torx screwdriver
Jackstands X2
Floor Jack
piece of wood, 2x4
common sense x10
First we'll look at where the mounts are located from the top of the vehicle. Do not try to locate them by looking downward, they are pretty well hidden under the car. This is just to give you a rough idea of where they are.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03959.jpg
Loosen the front wheels with a 1/2 inch ratchet and your 17mm socket, jack the car up and place both jackstands under in strong location. Typically I use the mounting points from the suspensions arms to the body. Finish removing the front wheels.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03947.jpg
Next, you will never to remove two of the belly pans under the car which will require your 8mm and 10mm sockets and your 3/8th inch ratchet *if you did not purchase a front engine mount, you can skip this part*. Focus on the two plastic belly pans on the passanger side of the vehicle, one will look like this (I will post an image of the other when I can find it).
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03952.jpg
With the two belly pans removed, you should be able to see the right hand side of your engine and the front motor mount which will look like this from your angle.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03953.jpg
Now we have to find a side access to the mount, the best way of doing this is peeling back your fender liner. This will require your philips screwdriver, 8mm, and 10mm again. You only have to remove enough bolts/screws to peel it back like in the picture.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03962.jpg
Now that you have a clear view of the front motor mount, you will probably notice the bitch is sagging in there, we need to correct this before we can remove the motor mount with ease.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03961.jpg
The best way to do this is to get a 2x4 (piece of wood), put it on top of your jack and jack up your oilpan carefully. Have somebody watching the bolt until it lines up enough to where you can fit your 8mm male hex socket inside.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03964.jpg
After the engine has been jacked up and is being supported, you will find the 3 bolts you need to remove to take this hunk of junk mount out. The two bolts that you can see from under the car will come out with a 15mm socket and your 1/2 inch ratchet. The middle one, like I previously stated, you will need the 8mm male hex socket and a 3/8 inch ratchet for. After you have all bolts out, you are going to have to muscle the mount around a little but it should drop right down when you get everything cleared.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03965.jpg
NOTE TO OTHERS! Do not let people borrow your tools! Halfway into a project, you may be forced to get on your only working vehicle, and drive to the nearest hardware store looking like a dirty idiot. Thanks you friggin moochers of tools. I want my 8mm hex back by the way.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03973.jpg
In the reverse order that you took off the front motor mount, you can now install your new and shiney motor mount. Tighten securly using blue or red threadlocker. Do not over-tighten the bolts (especially the 8mm hex) because it can be easy to strip out!
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03983.jpg
After that, you can put your fender liner and belly pans back on whenever you feel like it. I prefer to do it at the end just in case it gets in the way.
*IMPORTANT*
If you are installing the Transmission mount, remove the jackstand from under the oil pan, and with the 2x4 still under the jack, place it under the transmission and lift it Juuuuuust enough to support the transmission as you remove the mount. Do not lift it too much because we don't want stress on the bolts we are taking out.
Next we are going to look at the drivers side of the car where the Transmission mount is located. There will be a plate coming from the transmission mount to the transmission itself, it has 3 bolts that you cannot see from this angle that I tried to circle in green. I recommend taking them out so you can get a better view of things, you will take them out using an 16mm socket and a 1/2 inch ratchet. Afterwards, the bolts circled in red come out with a 15mm socket and 1/2 inch ratchet. When you have the plate off, you will see two more bolts which will require a 16mm socket and 1/2 inch ratchet to remove. Take them out and the transmission mount should drop right down with ease.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03954.jpg
Looking at the mounts side by side, you will notice the transmission mount is in a little different position, so when you mount it back up, you may have to readjust the jack under the transmission (lower it). BE CAREFUL when you lower it, for the love of God take your time here.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03975.jpg
Now, loosely install the transmission mount onto the body so it's adjustable, reinstall the plate with the 3 16mm bolts and line the plate up to the new transmission mount. This took a little work on my part, a little prying but within 5 minutes, I got it to line up with the 15mm bolts holes and reinstalled them. With all bolts loose, but installed, make sure you tighten the 3 16mm bolts to the tranny, the 2 15mm bolts from the plate to the tranny mount, and the 2 16mm bolts from the tranny mount to the body. Use blue or red threadlocker once again to help keep the bolts from backing out over time.
Remove the jack from under the transmission.
Now for the rear Hydro mount. This little puppy can be a pain in the ass for some people, if you take your time and realize you can't rush through this, you'll be fine. It's not a matter of being hard to get at more than it is, just, a longer process.
As you're under the car, you will see right next to the catylitic converter (if I did indeed spell that correctly), just on your left hand side is the hydraulic motor mount.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03955.jpg
Now, to remove this puppy you will need to put that jack with the 2x4 under the oilpan again just to support the motor. After that, crawl back under and you will see two 17mm bolts holding the bottem of the motor mount to a the cross beam which I have circled in red here. The blue circle indicates the rear motor mount.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03984.jpg
After you have removed the two 17mm bolts, you will notice a bracket holding the top part of the motor mount onto the engine itself. This is a side shot of it which you will not have this angle by just trying to look at it, it is simply for reference of where the bolts are. Remove the top two bolts with an 18mm ratchet, the bottem one I had to use an 18mm wrench for because it is in a tight spot.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03987.jpg
After you get those three bolts out, you can take the whole bracket and the mount out of the engine bay. I had to worm the sucker through the top passanger side of the engine bay just to get it out, but it's possible. When that's out, you can finish removing the mount from the bracket with the one bolt left on top. It's a 16mm and you might have to put the bracket in a vice or use an impact if you have one. IF YOU USE A VICE, BE CAREFUL WHEN TIGHTENING, this is an aluminum bracket and you can break it if you're not careful!
Reverse the order to put the last mount back in, remove the jackstand from under the car, make sure you put the belly pans back on and torque your wheels to spec (I always just do 100 ft-lbs). Also, just for the sake of it, run through the bottem of your car, make sure nothing is loose, everything is back where it should be. When you feel confident about your work, drop your car back on the ground and test out your new mounts!
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03990.jpg
Like I said, this is a rough How-To, I'll probably rewrite it in the future with a few more pictures, but until then, hopefully this will help a few people. Also, I did not reread this, so if there is a problem, please PM me or write in the thread and let me know.
This is a rough How To, please use all information at your own risk. I am an amature myself and have no clue what I am doing.
This install was done on my 02 Viggen, most 9-3s should have a similar setup so I hope this can help some of you thinking about doing this install.
Tools needed:
1/2 inch ratchet
3/8 inch ratchet
Sockets - 18mm, 17mm, 15mm, 8mm, 10mm
Wrenches - 18mm
8mm Hex male socket
philips screwdriver
T20 Torx screwdriver
Jackstands X2
Floor Jack
piece of wood, 2x4
common sense x10
First we'll look at where the mounts are located from the top of the vehicle. Do not try to locate them by looking downward, they are pretty well hidden under the car. This is just to give you a rough idea of where they are.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03959.jpg
Loosen the front wheels with a 1/2 inch ratchet and your 17mm socket, jack the car up and place both jackstands under in strong location. Typically I use the mounting points from the suspensions arms to the body. Finish removing the front wheels.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03947.jpg
Next, you will never to remove two of the belly pans under the car which will require your 8mm and 10mm sockets and your 3/8th inch ratchet *if you did not purchase a front engine mount, you can skip this part*. Focus on the two plastic belly pans on the passanger side of the vehicle, one will look like this (I will post an image of the other when I can find it).
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03952.jpg
With the two belly pans removed, you should be able to see the right hand side of your engine and the front motor mount which will look like this from your angle.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03953.jpg
Now we have to find a side access to the mount, the best way of doing this is peeling back your fender liner. This will require your philips screwdriver, 8mm, and 10mm again. You only have to remove enough bolts/screws to peel it back like in the picture.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03962.jpg
Now that you have a clear view of the front motor mount, you will probably notice the bitch is sagging in there, we need to correct this before we can remove the motor mount with ease.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03961.jpg
The best way to do this is to get a 2x4 (piece of wood), put it on top of your jack and jack up your oilpan carefully. Have somebody watching the bolt until it lines up enough to where you can fit your 8mm male hex socket inside.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03964.jpg
After the engine has been jacked up and is being supported, you will find the 3 bolts you need to remove to take this hunk of junk mount out. The two bolts that you can see from under the car will come out with a 15mm socket and your 1/2 inch ratchet. The middle one, like I previously stated, you will need the 8mm male hex socket and a 3/8 inch ratchet for. After you have all bolts out, you are going to have to muscle the mount around a little but it should drop right down when you get everything cleared.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03965.jpg
NOTE TO OTHERS! Do not let people borrow your tools! Halfway into a project, you may be forced to get on your only working vehicle, and drive to the nearest hardware store looking like a dirty idiot. Thanks you friggin moochers of tools. I want my 8mm hex back by the way.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03973.jpg
In the reverse order that you took off the front motor mount, you can now install your new and shiney motor mount. Tighten securly using blue or red threadlocker. Do not over-tighten the bolts (especially the 8mm hex) because it can be easy to strip out!
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03983.jpg
After that, you can put your fender liner and belly pans back on whenever you feel like it. I prefer to do it at the end just in case it gets in the way.
*IMPORTANT*
If you are installing the Transmission mount, remove the jackstand from under the oil pan, and with the 2x4 still under the jack, place it under the transmission and lift it Juuuuuust enough to support the transmission as you remove the mount. Do not lift it too much because we don't want stress on the bolts we are taking out.
Next we are going to look at the drivers side of the car where the Transmission mount is located. There will be a plate coming from the transmission mount to the transmission itself, it has 3 bolts that you cannot see from this angle that I tried to circle in green. I recommend taking them out so you can get a better view of things, you will take them out using an 16mm socket and a 1/2 inch ratchet. Afterwards, the bolts circled in red come out with a 15mm socket and 1/2 inch ratchet. When you have the plate off, you will see two more bolts which will require a 16mm socket and 1/2 inch ratchet to remove. Take them out and the transmission mount should drop right down with ease.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03954.jpg
Looking at the mounts side by side, you will notice the transmission mount is in a little different position, so when you mount it back up, you may have to readjust the jack under the transmission (lower it). BE CAREFUL when you lower it, for the love of God take your time here.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03975.jpg
Now, loosely install the transmission mount onto the body so it's adjustable, reinstall the plate with the 3 16mm bolts and line the plate up to the new transmission mount. This took a little work on my part, a little prying but within 5 minutes, I got it to line up with the 15mm bolts holes and reinstalled them. With all bolts loose, but installed, make sure you tighten the 3 16mm bolts to the tranny, the 2 15mm bolts from the plate to the tranny mount, and the 2 16mm bolts from the tranny mount to the body. Use blue or red threadlocker once again to help keep the bolts from backing out over time.
Remove the jack from under the transmission.
Now for the rear Hydro mount. This little puppy can be a pain in the ass for some people, if you take your time and realize you can't rush through this, you'll be fine. It's not a matter of being hard to get at more than it is, just, a longer process.
As you're under the car, you will see right next to the catylitic converter (if I did indeed spell that correctly), just on your left hand side is the hydraulic motor mount.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03955.jpg
Now, to remove this puppy you will need to put that jack with the 2x4 under the oilpan again just to support the motor. After that, crawl back under and you will see two 17mm bolts holding the bottem of the motor mount to a the cross beam which I have circled in red here. The blue circle indicates the rear motor mount.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03984.jpg
After you have removed the two 17mm bolts, you will notice a bracket holding the top part of the motor mount onto the engine itself. This is a side shot of it which you will not have this angle by just trying to look at it, it is simply for reference of where the bolts are. Remove the top two bolts with an 18mm ratchet, the bottem one I had to use an 18mm wrench for because it is in a tight spot.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03987.jpg
After you get those three bolts out, you can take the whole bracket and the mount out of the engine bay. I had to worm the sucker through the top passanger side of the engine bay just to get it out, but it's possible. When that's out, you can finish removing the mount from the bracket with the one bolt left on top. It's a 16mm and you might have to put the bracket in a vice or use an impact if you have one. IF YOU USE A VICE, BE CAREFUL WHEN TIGHTENING, this is an aluminum bracket and you can break it if you're not careful!
Reverse the order to put the last mount back in, remove the jackstand from under the car, make sure you put the belly pans back on and torque your wheels to spec (I always just do 100 ft-lbs). Also, just for the sake of it, run through the bottem of your car, make sure nothing is loose, everything is back where it should be. When you feel confident about your work, drop your car back on the ground and test out your new mounts!
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/kookhowto/DSC03990.jpg
Like I said, this is a rough How-To, I'll probably rewrite it in the future with a few more pictures, but until then, hopefully this will help a few people. Also, I did not reread this, so if there is a problem, please PM me or write in the thread and let me know.