Final Pictures of a STG 3 A4 Detail

[lenny]

Well, first I'd like to start off by saying that I'm not going to put this in the detailing forum because that forum is dead and no one looks at it anyway. Also, I'd like to point out that Kevin's swirls (although time consuming because of the care you have to take to the soft gel like paint on VAG cars) were not that bad. Here is why my services are worth so much more than I charge. I am not only a detailer but also a professional in the ''paint correction'' industry. Let me explain

Picture of the car before the wash...Dirty

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31410067_8828.jpg

Here is a picture of Kevin's car before. Look at the reflection off the sun and you can see how the glare gets repeated across the entire body panel by all the swirl marks.

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31399685_6518.jpg

Someone that doesn't know how to detail/buff (the dealership Kevin bought the car from) got ahold of Kevins hood. Not only are the reflections and glares repeated throughout the entire hood but the swirls are also inconsistent and layered (we in the detailing industry often times call this phenomenon a ribbon effect, or ''ribbons'').

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31399687_6971.jpg

More swirls....

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31399688_7190.jpg

More...

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31399690_7639.jpg

Car washed, clayed and tapped off (it's easier to tape off a car than to replace all the trim after you ruin it). Ready for some cutting pads and a light compound. The combination of different levels of pads, compounds, and polishes will remove the swirls (pinnacle and 3m Products with Lake Country CCS pads)

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31399691_7868.jpg

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31399692_8096.jpg

Compounded, and lightly polished with a finish polish. You can see the dust that the compounds make when they're broken down. After this step the car was rinsed down and dried

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31399696_9020.jpg

After rinse down/dry. Car was glazed with a finishing glaze (menzerna)

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31410075_356.jpg

All rubber was dressed at this time (never dress rubber before compounding/polishing, all of that dust that you saw 2 photos up will stick to EVERYTHING!!!)

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31410076_609.jpg

Here in this picture the glaze is still "flashing out" (a period of time where the unprotected paint can soak in some of the oils and moisturizers from the glaze). Also, note that the paint is already starting to get a nice ''luster'' to it. This is before the wax is applied. Many backyard detailers and do it themselvers who ''wax'' their car can sometimes experience this effect (not nearly as good nor durable) after applying a cleaner wax (don't get me started on cleaner waxes, as far as I'm concerned they're junk). However, if you want true results you must understand that 80-90 percent of a good shine is in the prep (clay,compound, polish), not the wax itself. That being said, a cheap off the shelf cleaner wax may produce a shine. However, it will not be anywhere close to what a full prep/and wax/ can do nor will it last anywhere near as long. I'll say it one more time, cleaner wax is awful

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31410078_868.jpg

Glaze is removed by hand with a microfiber and then high speed buffed with a mircofiber attachment on the PC

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31410079_1132.jpg

Glaze removed....still no wax

http://photos-328.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v140/136/81/71803328/n71803328_31410081_1651.jpg

I'll bring some higher res stuff in the following post to really show results.
-Dan

[lenny]

Now onto higher res shots. This will give you all a better idea. This is the car still before wax and right after glaze.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/A4Q002.jpg

Now onto waxes. Waxes can be broken down into 2 different categories: Durable (also called synthetic), and pretty. Durable waxes are often made of synthetic man-made ingredients and cost much less than the ''pretty'' waxes (some notable synthetics are Meg's Gold class, NXT line, and Mothers). Pretty waxes are made out of carnuba or other natural ingredients, they contain NO CLEANERS (i can wax plastic with mine and it will not leave a white residue), and are priced much higher (the DP Max Wax I used on Kevin's car is a 100% pure carnuba, feels like butter/hand lotion, and because it has no cleaners it comes off as easy as it goes on, Kevin couldn't believe how easy it comes off). The DP Max Wax I used on Kevin's car costs about 35-40 bucks for a small jar and will last about 30 days or so per application (this time of year). Pure carnuba gets broken down pretty easily in hot sun so durning the hot summer months it only lasts about 2 weeks or so. I also use P21s (produces the same results as DP Max but costs more) and Pinnacle Soverign (Considered the king of ''cheap'' pretty waxes and costs about 80 bucks for a jar). In time, I plan on moving up to Swissvax and other hand applied (the warmth of your hands turns it from bacteria into wax, no applicator pad here) that really pop and cost about 200dollars for a 12 oz jar.

What is wax? Wax is a protectant. It produces a fine layer that enhances depth, shine, and metallics. I used a ''pretty'' wax and it definitely shined up Kevin's car. IT feels like glass now and it is DEFINITELY a darker color...no question about it

Before pic of the worse swirls on the doors. The picture won't load entirely on my computer but you get the idea

Before:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/asdf002.jpg

After compounding/polishing but before wax:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/IMG_2350.jpg

As far as depth and metallic ''pop'' goes...I'll let you be the Judge...Also, i've noticed that the metallic in Dolphin Grey produces a darkening effect. Enhancing it's ''pop'' makes the vehicle look darker. These pictures show the effect a little more than you can see it in person because of the differences in the time of day (the glossy results are still very obvious when seen in person) A good way to be the judge of these photos is to look at a constant color (the tires, and the plastic trim stay the same color regardless of sun hue/brightness because they're a semi-matte finish)

Before..this picture was taken just after first wash...taken at about 5:30pm:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/A4Q014.jpg

After the entire process, taken at about 2:00 pm the following day:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/IMG_2349.jpg

Again...Much ''darker'' and ''wet''. I'm showing you different angles of the vehicle for 2 reasons. #1 The full effect of the sun was at different points when the pictures were taken(different time of day) #2... Unfortunately the other pictures didn't turn out...lol

Before the wash:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/IMG_2323.jpg
Before the Compound/polish/wax
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/asdf006.jpg

Afters:
Out in the Sun
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/A4Q013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/A4Q015.jpg
In doors under flourescent (this is by far the most unforgiving light)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/IMG_2362.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/lensch09/A4Q008.jpg

I have more pictures but I believe I've proved my point. Feel free to contact me VIA PM if you need more information
-Dan

[MrFlippant]

B-E-A-Utiful!

[John2.0T]

Nice work!

Very informative thread too :)

[MrFlippant]

I can't wait until I can afford to repaint my car so I can justify getting it seriously detailed...

[07GTI]

:tu: looks awsome

[SDKmann]

So how much would something like that cost?

[lenny]

Kevin's car was fairly easy. right around 100-115 bucks. Most professional detailers charge upwards of 250 for a job like this
-Dan

[CHARLATAN]

Kevin's car was fairly easy. right around 100-115 bucks. Most professional detailers charge upwards of 250 for a job like this
-Dan

Looks GREAT!! And I know pics don't do it justice...they never do.

You are a STEAL.
I use Griots products (expensive for the 'normal' hobbyist) and last weekend Michelle and I did her Corrado (black).
Had terrible swirl marks, etc, from months of not doing much to it.
I dish soap'd it, Claybar'd, Polish 1 (twice), Polish 2 (twice) and Polish 3.
Followed up with Best of Show wax (hard to remove, but good for a novice).
All applied with a PC random orbital.

This took the wife and I FOREVER. Serious. About 5 hours on Friday night, 8 hours on Saturday, and 3 hours on Sunday.
Guaranteed, we took our time and really paid attention to detail, and a detail like this would only need to be done about once a year, but it took forever and we were sore at the end of each day.

If you lived closer to me, I would have just paid you.
The only saving grace is the fact that i really dig detailing...but it takes it's toll on my 32 year old body.

I would love to sit around and watch you do this...I am sure I would learn quite a bit too. Even better, I'll drop off the Jetta for you to do and I'll go drive around in your S4. :)

[turboA4]

THAT is AMAZING!!!!!!

dan...you are my hero

[OrangeDUB]

NIce work Dan!

My paint still feels great from earlier in the summer :tu:

[bA4]

that looks awesome, i would be interested in it but my overall paints well.. eeh. would it still be allright to get it detailed

[dubgteye]

How much would you quote someone for a full detail like above, plus inside too?

[SirRangeALot]

Smooth as buttah...nice work as always :tu: